Every leased car gets inspected at the end of the term. The bank's inspector documents condition, mileage, and any "excess wear" beyond a contractually-defined standard. If you took over the lease, every dent, scuff, and bald tire becomes your bill. Here's what they're looking at — and what you can do about it.
What "excess wear and tear" actually means
Every lease contract spells out specific tolerances. Common bank standards:
- Tires: minimum 4/32" tread depth (some banks: 3/32"), no sidewall damage, matching brand/size on each axle.
- Body: no dents larger than a credit card; no scratches that penetrate the clear coat; no missing paint.
- Glass: no cracks or chips larger than ~1 inch.
- Wheels: no major curb damage, no missing trim, all alloy/painted finish intact.
- Interior: no rips, burns, stains, or odors. Worn pedals and steering wheel are usually OK as normal wear.
- Mechanical: all dashboard warning lights resolved; no obvious mechanical defects (smoking exhaust, brake noise, fluid leaks).
How the inspection happens
The lease bank's third-party inspection company contacts you 60–90 days before lease-end to schedule. The inspector comes to you (home, work, or dealer) and spends 30–45 minutes:
- Photographs the car from every angle.
- Measures tire tread depth at multiple points.
- Documents any damage with photos and notes.
- Records the odometer reading.
- Generates an itemized report estimating "excess wear" charges.
You'll receive the report by email within a day or two. Charges are not final at this point — you have time to fix items before turning the car in.
Common charges and what they cost
- Door ding repair (PDR): \$50–\$150 if you fix it yourself before turn-in; \$200–\$400 if the bank charges you.
- Scratched bumper (paintless touch-up): \$300–\$600 from the bank; \$150–\$300 at a local shop pre-turn-in.
- Single bald tire: \$200–\$350 from the bank; \$120–\$200 at a tire shop.
- Curb-rashed wheel (single): \$200–\$400 to refinish at the bank; \$100–\$200 at a mobile wheel shop.
- Mileage overage: \$0.15–\$0.30 per mile, no way to fix. Drive less or buy out the car.
Strategies to minimize charges
- Get a pre-inspection. Most banks offer one for free 90 days before lease-end. Use it as a heads-up of what'll be charged so you can fix it cheaper.
- Fix damage yourself before turn-in. Always cheaper than the bank's rates.
- Replace tires if borderline. A set of four budget all-seasons (\$400–\$700 mounted) beats \$1,000+ in tire charges.
- Document everything. Take photos when you take possession AND when you turn it in. If the bank tries to charge for pre-existing damage, you have proof.
- Buy out the lease if charges are catastrophic. If you'd owe \$5,000+ in fees, sometimes buying the car (residual + tax) and reselling makes more sense.
Common questions
Can the bank charge for things that were already wrong when I took over?
Technically no, but practically yes if you can't prove it. That's why documentation at handoff matters: get the seller to do a walk-around video, time-stamped photos of every panel.
What's "normal wear" vs "excess"?
Normal wear: light scratches in clear coat, evenly worn pedals, minor stone chips on the hood, slight discoloration on seats. Excess: anything bigger than the bank's documented tolerances, missing/damaged parts, mechanical issues, modifications.
What if I disagree with the bank's charges?
You can request a re-inspection (some banks allow one free). You can also get an independent body shop to write a quote for the same work — if it's significantly less, dispute the bank's figure in writing.
Do I have to use the bank's repair shops?
No. You can fix anything yourself or at any shop before turn-in. The bank only charges if the damage is still there at the inspection.
Considering a takeover?
Document the car at handoff. Avoid surprise inspection fees later.
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